Bedtime Story (a snippet in a flash!)

It's Flash Fiction Friday! Every Friday during the month of July, I'll feature a snippet of one of my travel inspired short stories. I hope you enjoy! Back Camera

BEDTIME STORY

From mother to daughter

 

“What Yemaya wants, daughter, Yemaya gets.”

 

I was born on a kitchen floor at the beginning of the cyclone season. My mother, fearful of her fresh wash being ruined, had run outside to pull the clothes off the line. The moment she stepped indoors, her water broke. Mixed with that water, was blood.

 

I arrived on a pile of rain-dampened clothes, two months early and at the same moment, in the same place when my mother left this world. I like to think we met then as spirits going through one door to the next. I have no memory of her.

 

It was the year our country was changing. The Portuguese had just been defeated and had retreated, leaving burning piles of wreckage in their wake. It was a time of hope and great sadness. My grandfather told me these things. He was the keeper of our history.

 

My father, grandfather and I, moved from Beira to a small coastal village where my grandfather had two brothers. The fish were abundant and we ate very well. It was the year the civil war broke out, dividing our country yet again, breathing more death and explosive destruction.

 

There are two sounds I remember from my childhood, the rolling waves of the Indian Ocean and the decisive crack of machine guns and exploding mines. For seven years we lived by the ocean, my father, my grandfather and I, until danger crept too close, the death and screams taking over the air we depended on.

 

We left one night by foot. Our lives carried in a bag on my father’s back. We were among the first group from the village to leave, to head south, away we thought from the fighting. Ghost people, we roamed from shadow to shadow.

Copyright 2013, Sojourner Walker

 

Why I Love Pack for a Purpose

Do you want to make a positive impact, no matter how small, on your host country when you travel? Well thanks to Pack for a Purpose, it is easy to do good while traveling abroad.

Pack for Purpose is a non-profit organization with a direct and effective mission- to positively impact communities around the world by assisting travelers who want to bring meaningful contributions to the destinations they visit.

Small Space. Little Effort. Big Impact.

It’s simple, use available space in your luggage to provide supplies to communities you visit. Here’s how it works:

  1)     Visit http://www.packforapurpose.org/ and click destinations.

  2)     Select your destination.

  3)     Find either the hotel where you will be staying or a participating hotel near to where you are planning to stay and click to locate a community project and find out what the needs are.

 4)     Purchase about five pounds of materials from the list and add these items to your suitcase.

 5)      When you get to your destination, drop off your supplies at the participating hotel

 6)      Ta-da! You've made a difference!

As I type this post,  I’m preparing to go to Jamaica (yay!). I know I’ll be near Montego Bay so I clicked the Caribbean suitcase, found the Sandals Resort Montego Bay (even though that is not where I’ll be staying) and found that the Happy Venture Basic School is in need of donations. Ohm and I went straight to Family Dollar to purchase a few supplies to take with us. It is that easy!

I'm happy an organization like Pack for a Purpose exists. Sometimes it is the little things that make such a big difference. I look forward to making Pack for a Purpose a part of my regular travel routine.

 Pack for a Purpose

 *FYI, this piece reflects my opinion and has not been sponsored by Pack for a Purpose.

 

New York Watering Holes You Don't Want to Miss!

There is a loud pop. The band stops playing and a collective gasp is heard. At the staircase a crowd is gathering. By the bar, a man lays motionless; a circle of blood pools beneath his head. A petite woman collapses in a plume of red feathers, sobbing, howling as she pounds her fists on the body.

"Santori," She screams, black mascara tracks line her face.

"My cousin just killed my husband!"

An angry buzz fills the air. Actors scurry to the bar as patrons relax into their seats. The second scene is off to a dramatic start.  Sipping my jalapeno infused vodka and bitters drink from a white porcelain teacup, I allow myself to enter the world of the play. The band plays the old New Orleans standard St. James Infirmary as the body is marched through the bar.

Not your typical bar experience? In New York, there is no such thing.

In a city that goes above and beyond, bars are no exception. In New York, you can expect to be taken on a journey, whether that journey is back in time to the roaring twenties, to the garden for a farm to drink herbal infused cocktail or on a sensual trip to Italy via her finest wines.

Here's where to go for a memorable New York bar experience:

Apotheke

9 Doyers St

New York, NY 10038

In a dark alley in Chinatown, through a small unmarked door,  you'll find Apotheke. Enter to be transported to "Old New York." Behind the bar, along the exposed brick wall highlighted by candlelight, you'll find apothecary jars, herbs, bitters and a variety of liquors. Bartenders dressed in suspenders, vests or lab coats, mix, measure, whip and blend their creations. You've heard of farm to table, but have you embraced the concept of farm to bar? Here, organic herbs are infused into drinks with formulaic and medicinal precision. Broken down into categories such as stimulants, aphrodisiacs, stress relievers, pain killers, and euphoric enhancers, the menu is reminiscent of an old apothecary.

67 Orange Street

2082 Frederick Douglass Blvd

New York, NY 10026

Earl Grey infused gin? Whisky with herbal essences? Inspired by Almack’s Dance Hall, one of the first black owned bars in Harlem, 67 Orange Street is a hip central Harlem staple. 67 evokes the feel of the Harlem Renaissance. It is a small intimate speakeasy, the perfect bar for a quiet night out with your artsy friends. Be daring and ask the mixologist what drink they're working on and give the off-menu options a try. We sipped a dark chocolate margarita inspired cocktail infused with jalapeno peppers. So good.

Inoteca

98 Rivington Street at Ludlow

New York, NY 10002

Rustic and cozy, Inoteca is a classic wine bar (and restaurant) on the LES. The wine list carries over 500 varieties, you can't go wrong here. Inoteca is where I first discovered Lambrusco during a slow post-brunch wine break. With a ceiling to floor window wall facing Ludlow, this is the perfect spot for people watching, or if you're in the mood for privacy, head downstairs to the wine cellar, where you can relax around aromatic wooden tables with family, friends and a bottle or glass of your favorite vino.

The Back Room

102 Norfolk (near Delancey St) New York, NY 10002

Walk down a flight of stairs, crouch through a small wooden door that leads into an alleyway, walk up the fire escape and in through the small door and you've arrived at The Back Room. Come prepared to play. There's dinner theatre and there's the speakeasy bar theatre experience at the Back Room. Conjure up your finest Gatsby era attire and rub shoulders with ghosts of New York's prohibition past. Sip drinks out of teacups as you do the Charleston to a live brass band, take in a burlesque show or two on the second floor and get ready for the theatrical action as actors simulate a bar fight, a murder, a police raid and countless other scenarios.

 

Wine Spot

127 Macdougal Street

New York, NY 10012

Easily one of the most romantic spots in New York, Wine Spot, is a cozy, exposed brick room, in the heart of the West Village. I'm reminded of that iconic scene from Lady and the Tramp whenever I stop by. Between the french inspired cafe tables, the soft candles and delicate flower arrangements, it is hard not to fall in love. If you time it right, you can snag the chaise lounge in front of the working fireplace. This is an ideal place for a date night, but the best time to go is during the week before seven pm, as it crowds quickly.

 

The Plaza Champagne Bar

768 5th Ave

New York, NY 10019

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For a dose of sophistication, the Champagne Bar at the Plaza Hotel is an afternoon or evening well spent. Get dressed up and relax in the luxurious lounge. The Champagne list is extensive and features some of the finest champagnes the world has to offer. With crystal chandeliers overhead, plush velvet seats and a great view of Central Park, it's easy to spend more than a few hours and dollars here. Drinks are pricy, but at least the buttery popcorn is free.

 

Alice's Arbor

549 Classon Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11216

Alice's Arbor is a hipster hang-out with an emphasis on farm to table fare. Part bar, part restaurant, the drink menu is as quirky and layered as the country cottage/mod decor. Alice's Arbor has a hearty wine and whisky list. When it comes to creative cocktails, it's all about the details and my favorite is the spicy jalapeno infused margarita.

Sojourner Features: Traveler Mark Williams

Each week, during the month of July, I'm interviewing and featuring  world travelers whose adventurous spirits inspire us to keep exploring and experiencing the world. This week, I'd like to introduce my first Sojourner Feature- jazz trombonist Mark Williams

 

1.  Tell us about yourself!

Mark Williams. I'm American, born in Brooklyn, New York. You can find my website at http://www.markplaystrombone.com

2.  Where do you currently live and what is your occupation?

I live in Brooklyn, New York and I'm a musician. I play the bass trombone with the Count Basie Orchestra.

 3.  What is the first country you traveled to internationally? What were your impressions?

Poland-I was startled by the fact that I did not see anybody else that looked like me in Poland. That's a lot for a kid from Brooklyn to digest on his first trip outside of the US.

4.  When did you first realize you were bitten by the travel bug?

I first realized I had the travel bug in high school when my band director bragged about all of the wonderful places that music allowed him to see and experience.

5.  Do you have a travel mantra?

I guess that it's best not to plan, just experience.

6.  If you could spontaneously pack up tomorrow and head anywhere in the world, where would you go and what would you do?

Paris-I would eat everything I see.

 

 

 

 

 

Take a Trip to Bountiful!

The shadows on the wall indicate the passage of time. Lying awake, the full moon overhead, you’re anxious. You are compelled to go, to run into the quiet street. The dull ache in the center of your chest, the pulling, the heaviness begins to flutter- “Bountiful…” the whispered word tumbles from your lips before floating into the night sky like a prayer.

On a muggy evening, earlier this week, I made my way through the buzz of electric excitement that is Times Square to the intimate Stephen Sondheim Theatre to see The Trip to Bountiful.

Expertly directed by Michael Wilson, The Trip to Bountiful features an esteemed cast of actors. Cicely Tyson, who won the Best Actress Tony Award for her role as Carrie Watts, gives one of the most profound and memorable performances on the stage this year. Every subtle nuance of Carrie’s struggle was captured effortlessly. Vanessa Williams, as Jessie Mae Watts was seamlessly demanding, cantankerous and endearing. She was an antagonistic character you couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming empathy towards. Cuba Gooding Jr., played the role of Ludie Watts radiating a profound internal sadness.

 

Aesthetic perfection was achieved with the set, at times gloriously backlit in optimistic specks of amber and cerulean, at others, a reflection of a still star spangled midnight sky. The costuming - stockings, slips, beautifully patterned dresses with matching coats, pearl necklaces and bracelets, rolled hair, gloves, clutches and hats, was authentic and stirred in me a nostalgia for an era I was born decades too late to have experienced.

 

This brings us back to Bountiful, a place Carrie has clung to, a light in the darkness. Home often isn’t necessarily where we live. It isn’t always the place we hang our hats and lay our heads. Home is more profound than that, more powerful. Home is the place our fondest memories were made, the foundation that built the defining stories of our lives. Home is the place we aspire to go, when everything else has failed us.

 

The Trip to Bountiful runs through September 1st, 2013 at the Stephen Sondheim Theatre at 124 W 43rd Street.

 

MY TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL GIVEAWAY!

 

I will present one lucky reader with two tickets to The Trip to Bountiful. Here’s how to enter:

 

1) Sign-up for my newsletter

Subscribe to our newsletter

2) Follow me on Facebook

3) Follow me on Twitter and Follow Bountiful on Twitter

4) Share this post on your FB page

5) Tweet this post using the hash tag #bountiful and @sojossojourns

The winner will be selected and announced on Friday, July 12th.

* I’d like to thank the Britto Agency for the tickets and for sponsoring the giveaway!

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24 Hours in Lisbon? 7 Experiences Not To Miss

24 Hours in Lisbon? 7 Experiences Not To Miss- From seductive Fado music, to delectable pastries and great wine, Lisbon is a city rich with history, arts and culture. You could easily spend many days strolling the narrow cobblestone streets, absorbing the many gifts the city has to offer. If you've only got a day to explore, however, here are seven experiences not to be missed!

1 ) Morning espresso and pastries at Cafe Brasileira (Rua Garrett 120)

This famed cafe is an institution in Lisbon. One of the oldest cafes in the city, Cafe Brasileira was where the great Portuguese writers, artist and intellectuals gathered to ponder life, politics and enjoy a strong drink.

2 ) Afternoon shopping at the outdoor market in Rossio Square

Rossio square transforms into a bustling marketplace on Saturdays and Sundays. You can find everything here, from local cheese and wine to flowers and jewelry. Perch by the fountain and enjoy live music and performances in the summertime.

3 ) Have a custom perfume made at Perfumaria Alceste -Rua da Conceição, 85(Lisboa - Baixa )

Perfumarias or perfume shops are a ubiquitous sites on the streets of Lisbon, but Perfumaria Alceste is different. Here, you can custom blend your own perfume. Choose from hundreds of scents to create a fragrance unique to you.

4 ) Ride the Santa Justa Elevator - Rua de Santa Justa

The Santa Justa Elevator is the only remaining vertical lift in the city of Lisbon. Ride to the top for stunning panoramic city views.

5 ) Take a streetcar into the old neighborhood of Alfama

Compact and vintage, the streetcars navigate the narrow winding streets of Lisbon with precision and grace. This is one of the best ways to see some of the older neighborhoods like Alfama. The Moorish architecture in Alfama is absolutely gorgeous.

6 ) Drink vinho verde at the cafe at the end of Rua de Santa Catarina, in Baixa/Chiado

One of the most relaxing spots in the city, this is the perfect place to sip vinho verde (green wine), a local favorite. The cafe bearing the sign Zon, offers a panoramic view of Lisbon and is an ideal place to watch the sun set.

 

7 ) Enjoy an evening of live Fado music at Senhor Vinho- Rua do Meio a Lapa 18

Declared by UNESCO to be an intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Fado is a melodic expression of melancholy love and loss. Incredibly lyric and moving, Fado is the music of Portugal and nowhere in Lisbon is the Fado finer then at Senhor Vinho. The owner, Maria da Fe, is one of Portugal's great voices of Fado.

What is the first thing you would do if you only had 24 hours in Lisbon?

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Lisbon, Portugal Photo Essay

Lisbon, Portugal Photo Essay- Ten twenty Euro notes come tumbling crisply from the machine. As you reach for your money, you're jolted forward. A gruff hand is on your right shoulder. Your fingers form a tight fist around your money as you swivel around.

"Please, I'm hungry, I need money for food."

A filthy hand is thrust in your face. You step backwards and stare dumbfounded at the dark pleading eyes before you.

"Excuse me." You wave the skinny unshaven man away with your free hand.

"Please, I'm so hungry." He steps closer.

His teeth are brown, you can smell his breath.

You step backwards,shoving your money into your bag without sorting it into your wallet. "No."

You wonder if you should break and run.

"I need money for soup. Please you have money."

"I'm sorry." You shake your head nervously, he's too close.

"Soup. I just want soup." He reaches for your arm again.

"NO!"

The ferocity of your response startles you. Moreover, the ferocity of your response startles him. He steps back, looking confused as you grab your belongings and run-walk down the street.

You follow the acute right angles of the narrow glossy streets. Moorish architecture towers above you. There are so many colors- multiple shades of coral and yellow, jade and blue. A network of wrought iron balconies hover above. An odd violet or rose sneaks between the bars. You begin to relax.

You trek uphill, then downhill, up again, then down. The soles of your shoes fight for tread against the slick tiles covering the ground in black and white marble-like patches. Around every corner, a bookstore, a cafe- this is a place where thoughts, ideas, words, are sacred. You stand, face pressed against glass, like a child at an aquarium, admiring the dark textured wood of the bookshelves. Now this, you think, this is a bookstore. Volumes of fresh books, not a kindle in sight, just a sea of crisp paper and sturdy wood. Breathing in the literary spirit of Lisbon, you feel in kindred company with the faces you pass as you continue your trek uphill.

Lisbon is a city of contrasts and colors.

A city on the water, a city of seven hills.

A city of wealth, a city of poverty.  Immaculately polished streets supported 16th century buildings covered in graffiti.

Lisbon is the place to go for a slow alfresco lunch or dinner. Savor the wine, the flavors, an after dinner espresso.

On the streets of Lisbon, music, entertainment and culture are rich. The Nitty Gritty About This City- Airport: Lisbon's Portela Airport is centrally located- about a 15-20 minute drive to the heart of the city. The close proximity was convenient and meant a taxi ride was only about 6 Euros from our hotel to the airport. Upon arrival, we took the local bus from the airport to our hotel. We paid 2 Euros for the thirty minute bus ride. The buses in Lisbon are clean, spacious (stroller plus bags) and easy to navigate! Getting Around: Lisbon is a walkable city and is pretty easy to navigate once you understand the grid. Old fashioned streetcars roll through the city and can take a load off of tired feet as the city is full of hills. Taxis are a ubiquitous site and they're very easy to hail off the street. You will find many taxi queues as well. Beware of Beggars! We were followed by some extremely aggressive beggars. Be sure to watch your bags and assert a clear and non-negotiable "no!"Exercise caution at ATM machines. In one instance, I was withdrawing money, my sister was standing right behind me with a baby stroller to block me and a beggar still ended up beside me, way too close for comfort. As a New Yorker, I thought I was used to things like this, but in Lisbon, a simple no, or an ignore, means beg harder and follow even closer, you have to be aggressive.

Have you traveled to Lisbon? What were your impressions?

Cascais: Playground of Portugal's Aristocratic and Elite

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SONY DSC Stunning azure water, yachts gliding through the breeze, gated multi-million dollar estates balanced delicately above the sea. A place to aspire to, a place to be seen, Sintra's neighboring municipality of Cascais, is where Lisbon's high society spends luxurious summers and weekends. SONY DSC

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What was once a small fishing village and summer vacation destination for the Portuguese Royal family was transformed in the 1930s when a casino was built. Perhaps you've heard of Casino Royale, as in Ian Fleming's James Bond novel? The book was based on this casino which subsequently turned Cascais into a playground for Portugal's high society and other European elite.

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Portugal managed to remain neutral during WWII and as a result received many European exiles, particularly from Spain and Italy. In Casais, these former monarchs built sprawling seaside estates riding out the war in seaside luxury. With the beautiful weather and casinos, Cascais became Europe's new riviera.

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Today, Cascais is full of luxury resorts and homes. Elaborate golf courses sit at the base of mountains, encircled by palm trees.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The descendants of the Portuguese aristocracy still call Cascais's 5th Quarter home.

 

Stunning Sintra: Portugal's Ode' to Romanticism

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Sintra, Portugal  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your sandals slide across the slick cobblestone. Navigating your way slowly uphill through narrow streets cast in mid-day shadows, you take in the sounds. From somewhere in the distance jazz music floats in the air, ethereal church bells trill, there is laughter.

Sintra, Lisboa

Above, a piercing strip of blue cloudless sky. Flowers dangle from wrought iron balconies. Blue, white and yellow ceramic tile create an ornate and charming facade. You brush your fingers along the cool and surprisingly, not so smooth porcelain and smile- you've arrived.

houses of sintra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With a name inspired by the Greek Goddess of the moon (usually pronounced Cynthia), Sintra, Portugal's second most populous municipality, with its high elevation in the mountains, seems the perfect monument to its namesake.

panoramic view of sintra from the mountains

From your first moment there, breathing the crisp mountain air, taking in the stunning panoramic ocean views, it's clear that Sintra is a very special place.

Lush, green, vibrant and beautiful, Sintra was the summer home to Portugal's Royal family from the 13th century to the end of their reign in the 1930s. Palaces, stand as reminders. Pena Palace, a 19th century castle, built for Queen Maria II looms in the distance. In the center of town, the National Palace still stands as a monument.

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In addition to hosting royalty, Sintra has the distinction of being the capital of the Portuguese Romantic Movement. During the end of the 18th century, Portuguese and European artists flocked to Sintra to draw creative inspiration. Among these artists were English poet Lord Byron and the Danish master of fairy tales Hans Christian Andersen.

Modern day Sintra holds tight to its aristocratic, literary and artistic past. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, one could get lost admiring the Moorish architecture and rich history. Wandering along narrow cobblestone paths, you'll find art galleries, ceramics studios, cafes, restaurants and wine bars.

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If you're lucky, you'll be able to catch the Feira de Sao Pedro, a large market which occurs twice a month bringing together local artists, farmers and vendors. If you do happen to make the market, be sure to sample a queijada, a small cheese and cinnamon pastry torte, they're a tasty specialty in Sintra.

 

 

 

Sintra is a quick day trip from Lisbon. About 90 minutes by bus, it is well worth the visit.

Romantic Cabo da Roca

cabo da roca portugal At the tip of Sintra's forested mountain range you'll find Cabo da Roca, Europe's Westernmost point.

Here the land melts into the sea. Hints of turquoise fade to jade, before blending in smoky wisps of white into the infinite sky.

cabo da roca portugal

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The air, crisp like lemons. Eucalyptus trees and Maritime pines fill the landscape.

ohm and sojourner in cabo da roca portugal

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This is one of the worlds many perfect settings.

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The Festival of the Iberian Masks

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One of the things I absolutely adore about travel is the likely hood that you'll run into something wonderful and unexpected. Such was the case, when we accidentally found ourselves smack dab in the middle of the Festival of the Iberian Masks. Iberian Mask Festival Lisbon 2013

The what?

The Festival of the Iberian Masks is relatively new, less than ten years old and is a joyous celebration of Portuguese culture.

Drummers Iberian Mask Festival Lisbon 2013

Drummers Iberian Mask Festival Lisbon 2013

Loud, bawdy and fun, it feels like a carnival of sorts. Participants dress in elaborate and colorful costumes and masks as they march, gyrate and holler in celebration of their shared story.

Children Iberian Mask Festival Lisbon 2013There were masks that resembled bull heads, there were masquerade style masks, and priest costumes. The masks and costumed dress served to preserve an individuals anonymity as they are allowed the freedom of expression. People used this to their full advantage as some marchers veered off the parade course interacting with  spectators. One man, with a bull-horn mask, went so far as to head butt unsuspecting observers. It was all in good fun as he was met with shrieks of excitement and chuckles.

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Even Ohm, who is afraid of clowns and big bird, laughed and clapped to the music and at the masks.

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The parade marched down Terreiro do Paço, up Rua do Ouro (where we happened upon it), and into Praça do Rossio (one of Lisbon's main downtown squares).

What sorts of discoveries have you happened upon on your travels?

The Fine Food of Lisbon!

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In a city bursting with restaurants, bakeries and cafes, the worst part about eating in Lisbon was deciding where and what to eat. I had a horrible cold the entire time I was there (of course) which made tasting and smelling almost impossible. My senses were restored my last two days and I did as much snacking and eating as humanly possible to make up for everything. Here are some of the great things we sampled.

Vinho verde, also known as green wine. This wine is very popular in Portugal. Once again, I had no taste buds this day, but as you can see from the look on my sister's face, it's pretty tasty.

More vegetable pesto soup. This is a popular soup in Portugal.

Salmon and latkes

Bacallao- salted and dried cod fish, a favored staple in Portugal.

"Okay, really. Where's my food mom?!?"  The service was slow, but very much worth the wait. Take a look at the plush kiddie chair- quite fancy.

This was our favorite outdoor cafe.

Vanilla cream and chocolate croissants. What a great motivation to rise early!

Delicious espresso! No sugar, no milk, straight to the veins.

Sangria! The wine in Lisbon was so cheap, we couldn't help it.

I love that Ohm's milk was served in tiny espresso cups. He loved the milk too. I'm thinking the milk was cream. It was very thick and smelled like vanilla.

Vegetable paella

Mango gelatto

Vegetable quiche and salad.

White sangria, so cool, so bubbly.

A green and hearty salad.

Salmon steak! The fish is AMAZING in Portugal.

Though Port is not my cup of tea, I had to go there since I was in Portugal after all.

Savory vegetable pesto soup

Pasta with a dollop of fresh ricotta.

The Portuguese love cod fish and serve it in many ways. This was a simple grilled cod.

Chocolate mousse with strawberry rock candy that popped and fizzled in our mouths.

Street Art or Sabotage?

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SONY DSC Lisbon is welcoming us with twinkling eyes. We've hit somewhat of a winning streak, particularly when it comes to this unseasonably warm and sunny weather. In a city that is gray and sodden a typical 138 days out of the year (June-August are supposed to be lovely),  Lisbon, with its perfect Mediterranean summer weather is a city of extremes.

For us, Lisbon is revealing nothing of her dark dreary side. Clean, beautiful, ornate and charming, this city of surprises can add gritty and edgy to its virtues.

I'm awed by the graffiti street art that sprinkles many of Lisbon's old historic buildings. The city at times reminds me of an elegant older lady, sophisticated and dressed to the nines with both arms full of shocking colorful tattoos.

Take a look...

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What do you think, art or sabotage?

 

A Dream Realized in London

Kensington Palace The changing of the guards!

My friend Robin poses with a palace guard.

Big Ben!

Westminster Abbey

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I recently stumbled across these photos from my first trip to England- my first trip outside of North America.

It was the summer of 2002, I had just finished my graduate work at NYU and had six weeks to kill before I was set to begin my first job. My friend Robin was in London studying at the University of Westminster and invited me to stay with her during my six weeks of freedom.

I jumped at the opportunity. I had always liked the idea of travel. I had always wanted to see the world. I just hadn't gotten around to it between my conservatory style undergrad training that bled directly into fast paced and all-consuming grad school. There seemed to be a million distractions and traveling was simply a dream deferred.

Then I took the leap.

Something happened to me during those six weeks in London. The once deferred dream, was a dream realized and the dream was turning into somewhat of an obsession.

I tasted every new thing I could. I drank pints even though I wasn't a beer drinker, just because that was what was done. I visited the countryside, stared, mouth agape at the crowned jewels and the latest exhibits at the Tate. I went shopping at Harrods, Top Shop and Hadleys. I drank tea and indulged in scones and crumpets with clotted cream. I stood at the gates of Buckingham and Kensington Palace. I walked the banks of the River Thames and marveled at Westminster Abby and the Tower Bridge. I cheered at football matches, rode double-decker buses, splashed through puddles, and gave silver pounds to the street performers at Piccadilly Circus. I ate curry and shepherds pies, I tried marmalade and digestive biscuits. I sat in pubs, cafes and gardens and wrote for hours.

It was the summer I contracted the travel bug. The summer I stepped outside and into myself. It was perfect and it was imperfect.

It was the summer I got lost trying to navigate my way from central London to the outer zone of Dulwich (long before google maps had been invented to save us from ourselves). It was the summer my credit card was stolen at a pub while I sat working on a story enjoying some fish and chips. It was the summer I saw how Americans were sometimes perceived negatively abroad. It was the summer I saw the frustrations of many of England's immigrants living and striving to achieve the "English Dream" (if you will) in Outer London.

It was the summer of a powerful awakening.

Though the photos are somewhat blurry as they were taken on a fun-saver camera, long before my DSLR would become the  standard and though many of the photos are missing, I still feel the hope and optimism of that summer.

Throughout my last decade of international travel, I haven't spent much time in Europe (barring brief trips to Paris and Amsterdam).

As I pack my bags, I'm excited to return, if only for a little while, to England before I move on to explore Portugal. It has been a little over a decade. So much has happened. There is so much more yet to come!

Do you have a favorite European destination?

Why We Travel

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You're jolted out of your sleep. The rusty cargo van, which has been converted into a city bus is airborne. There's a collective gasp. You claw for the seat in front of you. The van lands hard and skids to a stop. Even though it's dark, even though there are no lights, you can make out the faint wisps of smoke rising from the rear of the van. There is a commotion. Dialects you can't decipher circle around you. Your two friends, who were seated in front of you, motion for you to get up. You grab for each other as people push and shove their way out of the burning cramped space. You notice your foot is bleeding as you step into the chilly night. Bags are being thrown from the smoking vehicle. You grab yours and blink disoriented at the sky above- Orion's belt, so close, it seems you could be lassoed away. Your friends are grabbing you, you're brought back. You watch as the other passengers scatter and disappear between blades of tall grass, off into the night. There will be no rescue van, panic sets in. You're a two hour drive from your destination. At least, you tell each other, at least you're together. Mosquitoes hover, the high pitched wine is driving you mad. You curse yourself for not taking your malaria medication. On the edge of the road, thumbs in the air, two Americans and a Canadian are stranded in rural Mozambique.

It is impossible to control our experiences on the road. Travel is a colossal enigma, perhaps that, in and of itself, is its major lure. We are forced to live in the moment, to bravely face the present with a fresh perspective. Romantic at times, often exciting, travel is rarely an immaculate and effortless path; it can be dangerous, downright frightening, yet off we go, pushing the boundaries of our comfort zones, the safety of the familiar, the ease of our loved ones and friends. Off we go into the great unknown, and why?

We travel to understand

Phuket, Thailand

Tokyo, Japan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We travel to taste

Grenada, Nicaragua

Phuket, Thailand

 

We travel to be moved

Stone Town, Zanzibar

Phuket, Thailand

 

We travel to help

Inhambane, Mozambique

Cape Coast, Ghana

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We travel to connect

Inhambane, Mozambique

Stone Town, Zanzibar

 

We travel for the momentos

Cancun, Mexico

Khao Lak, Thailand

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We travel to get lost, if only for a little while

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Mbane, Swaziland

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We travel to be found

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Arenal, Costa Rica

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We travel to try new things

Stone Town, Zanzibar

Phuket, Thailand

 

We travel to turn the faces of strangers into the faces of friends

Stone Town, Zanzibar

 

 

 

Williamstown, Massachusetts

 

We travel so that we can arm ourselves with memories, recollections that grow more beautiful and layered with time.

Montreal, Canada

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You pace back and forth, breath escaping in white clouds. You have to go to the bathroom. Your friend Tamika is seated on her suitcase, she looks defeated, close to tears.  To your right, your friend Lynne speaks with the driver in fluent Portuguese. Bell frogs color the night with their chimes. You can do nothing but wait. Wait for daylight, wait for another bus, a passing car, wait to be eaten alive by mosquitoes or wild dogs- wait.

At last, a set of headlights approach, Tamika jumps up extending her thumb. You join her with Lynne close behind. A large black Escalade rolls to a cautious stop. The driver, a young South African man, offers heartily to drop you home, it's on the way after all. Jumping from the SUV, he places your bags in the trunk.

Two girls and a guy are inside. They make room for you, offer everyone a Hansa beer. You sink into the incredibly plush white leather seats. The windows are down, the air  sweet and crisp. Techno music pulses from the speakers.

The two hours with your new friends pass quickly. Before you know it, you're dragging your suitcase down the old familiar path home. Weary, but upbeat, you're ready for your next weekend trip, perhaps Swaziland, Johannesburg, Nelspruit, or Chimoio?

What unexpected surprises have you encountered on the road?

 

Natural Oasis Vegan Ethiopian Buffet

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The aroma of Berbere is heavy in the air. It is a modest space, tables, chairs, a buffet table.

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On the wall, Ethipian prints have been hung and framed. Couples, friends, sit quietly as they enjoy the delicious food.

This is my first Ethiopian Buffet. The food, is vegan, satvic, delicious. The food is local and organic. Hot injera is folded in a basket beneath a cloth napkin. It is a simple spread. Rice that looks to be seasoned with saffron, collard greens, lentils, cabbage and beets.

Despite the simplicity, the buffet is aromatic, complex.

I pull apart the spongy injera bread and scoop up a pinch of Gomen (collard greens). I scoop and scoop, each bite is refreshingly mild, balanced and mysteriously savory. Delicious.

Sated, I lean back watching Ohm tinker away at the piano lining the far wall. Natural Oasis is a welcoming tot friendly establishment. One of the bonuses when it comes to vegetarian Ethiopian food, is that it is baby friendly. The food at Natural Oasis it is not spicy, making the perfect meal for beginning and emerging eaters.

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Natural Oasis is so much more than a restaurant, it’s a community wellness center. Just through the front doors, you’ll find a herb shop, where you can pick up Ayurvedic products, tinctures, teas, and other wellness products.

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Upstairs, you can receive Ayurvedic treatments, take a Kundalini Yoga class, get a massage, and be treated with herbal medicine.

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Rochester, New York is a suburban city, with its fair share of chain restaurants and food options, but if you know where to look, you’ll find a vast and diverse selection of local restaurants and alternative offerings. If you’ve never had Ethiopian food before and you’re curious, go to Natural Oasis. If you’re a vegetarian or a vegan in search of a new place to eat, go to Natural Oasis. If you love Ethiopian food, but always order the same items on the menu (guilty as charged), try the buffet at Natural Oasis and feel free to explore. If you live in or are passing through the Rochester area and are in search of a healthy plate of food from a locally owned establishment, go, go, go, to Natural Oasis.

Natural Oasis’ Vegan Ethiopian Buffet is open Monday through Saturday from 1pm-4pm and 5pm-8pm.

 

Are there hidden health food or Ethnic restaurants in your neighborhood that you’d like to shout out? Let us know about them in the comments section!

 

Natural Oasis Vegetarian and Ethiopian Cuisine

288 Monroe Ave (near Alexander Street)

Rochester, NY 14607

(585) 325-1831

 

A Riotous Good Time at the National Museum of Play

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The moment, we stepped through the glass doors, he was off.

20130422-200956.jpgFlip-clop flip-clop, sticky fingers and a nose pressed against a 1,700 gallon aquarium.

Flip-clop, flip-clop, climbing, problem solving, exploring, a toddler sized puzzle.

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“Wow!”

Eyes wide, finger pointing, at a wide mouthed, wild eyed, golden pony aboard a Victorian carousel.

Ohm moved non-stop for over three hours. He explored through his nap, and played through lunch.

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The National Museum of Play in Rochester, New York is an extreme kiddie wonderland.

On a recent visit home, after dragging my poor 20 month old all over the Rochester/Buffalo region to visit relatives, old friends from high school and my best college buddies, I made sure to plan a special trip for Ohm. I guess I shouldn’t say plan. I didn’t actually have to do anything except show up, pay the admission fee and ta-da! The perfect afternoon found us.

I’d heard people sing the praises of the National Museum of Play, I’d listened to the proclamations of greatness, but I honestly wasn’t expecting much more than a few brightly colored rooms of engaging fun to fill the space before nap-time.

I stand corrected.

Rochester’s National Museum of Play is a world class museum, with more nooks and crannies and educational programs to experience than one has time to explore during one visit.

Priding itself as being the only collections-based museum in the world dedicated entirely to play. The National Museum of Play is massive. After three hours and consequently missing nap-time, we only saw about a quarter of the offerings.

Full of stimulating hands-on exhibits, Ohm was off and engaged from the onset. Wiggling out of my hand, he ran ahead of me, capitalizing on every opportunity to twist,  turn, press buttons, and climb anything and everything.

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We ducked into toddler playrooms, where he socialized with the other kiddies and played dress-up.

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Attracted like a moth to the shiny golden ponies, we took a turn on the beautiful working carousel from 1918.

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It was all-aboard, as we chugged along the track through a simulated village on the kiddie passenger train.

There were science displays, collections of old fashioned teddy bears and dolls. There were tea-party sets and pianos to play.

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20130422-200626.jpgThe National Museum of Play is truly an experience. Home to the world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of dolls, toys and games, one can enjoy a life-sized doll house then walk down memory lane at a 1980’s style arcade full of vintage video games.

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This is a place to  build memories.

We didn’t make it to the indoor butterfly garden, or to the life sized Bernstein Bears exhibit, or to the American Comic Book Heroes display. There just wasn’t enough time.

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We did make it to the life sized Sesame Street exhibit, featuring the characters, scenes and experiences from the show.

20130422-200721.jpgOhm got to meet his best friend Elmo, drove Cookie Monster around in a taxi and screamed in mortal fear at a ten foot tall big bird (those eyes were creepy).

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We played supermarket in the life-sized simulated Wegmans Supermarket, where kids push mini carts down tiny isles, where they can grab their favorite food. The piece de resistance, is when they get to send their purchases down a conveyer belt where they can scan and bag their items. Ohm was focused. When he realized it was time to leave, he almost had a meltdown. I had to distract and trick him to get him to leave mini-supermarket land.

20130422-200409.jpg Luckily there are plenty of distractions. 

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Story Time is announced over an intercom and occurs several times a day.

A 1950’s style dinner near the lobby serves up tasty soda shop style snacks and meals.

Ohm and I had a ridiculously good time at the National Museum of Play. If you live near the Rochester, New York area or are traveling through with a child, this is a stop you MUST make.

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The National Museum of Play

One Manhattan Square

Rochester, NY 14607

585-263-2700

Monday–Thursday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Friday & Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Sunday, noon to 5 p.m.

Age 2 and older: $13

Under age 2: FREE

Have you visited the National Museum of Play? What did you think?

Best Holistic Bookstores and Shops NYC

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Last week, a Reiki client of mine who recently moved to New York from the Bay Area voiced frustration over trying to locate a good holistic store in her neighborhood.

"All I want are some essential oils, crystals and books."

I could empathize with her frustrations. It took me several years in New York to form relationships with my favorite holistic and spiritual shops. It was also much easier in 2001, a time when there seemed to me a lot more independent spiritual shops in the city and surrounding areas. From 2001 to 2013, four of my favorites closed down.

So where is one to go?

While I agree, that New York is not as abundant as it could be with holistic and spiritual shops, bookstores and herb shops, there is definitely a spiritual and holistic sub-culture and a few great stores that cater to it.

While working with my clients, I am regularly asked about places to buy books, mala beads, sage, meditation cd's, etc. This post is my answer to these questions.

Here are my favorites:

The Herb Shoppe Brooklyn

394 Atlantic Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11217

(718) 422-7981

You'll find row upon row of medicinal herbs, tea infusions and spices at Brooklyn's charming little gem, the Herb Shoppe. I love this place! They have a great selection of tinctures, salves and essential oils as well and bonus points, there is a naturopathic doctor on hand to answer questions.

Namaste Bookstore

2 W 14th St  New York, NY 10011

(212) 645-0141

One could get lost in Namaste for a very long time, a very, very long time indeed. It is hard to have a single focus when you enter Namaste because there is just so much to experience. Namaste has an extensive book collection, one of the best in the city as far as holistic and spiritual books are concerned. Also extensive, is their crystal collection, jewelry selection, and menagerie of altar worthy statues and carvings.

The New York Open Center Bookstore

22 East 30th Street, New York, NY 10016

212-219-2527 ext. 100.

The New York Open Center, in and of itself is a magnificent resource. Its bookstore is a wonderful resource as well. The New York Open Center Bookstore has a great selection of books. You'll also find a variety of goodies here from fragrance oils, reiki candles, incense, sage and mala beads.

Quest Bookshop

240 E 53rd St  New York, NY 10022

(212) 758-5521

Quest hosts an extensive collection of books. I love the quaint feel. This is another store where you could easily spend hours and not realize how much time has elapsed. In addition to a large variety of books, Quest sells candles, essential oils, crystals and incense.

*Also, Botanicas, depending on your neighborhood, can prove to be phenomenal holistic resources.

Madiba Restaurant in Ft. Greene, Brooklyn brings the tastes and sounds of South Africa to New York!

madiba 2 Peri-peri prawns, roti, and shima.

Whenever I miss the flavors and sounds from the “good ole’ days” in Mozambique, South Africa and Swaziland, I take myself to Ft. Greene, Brooklyn’s Madiba Restaurant.

Named after Nelson Mandela, Madiba is a portal from Brooklyn to South Africa. Specializing in South African cuisine with all of its unique influences from traditional Zulu dishes like Uputhu/Pap (boiled ground cornmeal with tomato-onion gravy) to Voortrekker inspired dishes like Boerwors Roll (herbed beef sausage with gravy on a hot dog bun) and Indian inspired dishes featuring an assorted variety of succulent curries and chutney, Madiba takes me on a journey of the senses each time I step inside. Some of the dishes draw inspiration from the tastes of Mozambique (South Africa’s next door neighbor). I can honestly say that I have never had a bad meal here. Never!

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The food is always fresh, all-natural and served up gourmet style. Vegetarians and vegans rejoice, there are plenty of options for you. If you come for brunch, the coffee is excellent- nice and rich. If you come for dinner, Madiba boasts an extensive South African wine list, and they even import my favorite liquor- Amarula!

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I love the attentive yet slow service. You are not rushed in Madiba, one can enjoy a slow brunch or a slow dinner. You’re encouraged to taste your food, draw energy from the atmosphere and enjoy the people in your company.

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At Madiba there is an immaculate attention to detail. The décor is distinctly reminiscent of South Africa, much of the music played is African.

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One can even purchase South African goodies from the shop at the front of the store. The selection of quirky imports brings me back to my days in Mozambique (much of the food in Mozambique was imported from South Africa) from the Jungle Oats Oatmeal, that I ate for breakfast to the Ramany Cream biscuits I splurged on every pay-day, to the Ceres boxed juice that kept me going beneath the hot sun; Madiba brings the tastes, sounds and charms of Southern Africa to Ft. Greene, Brooklyn. 20130414-142846.jpg

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For a refreshing spin on breakfast, try Madiba’s Sunday Brunch, which starts at ten am.

Okay Sojourner, so what are you getting out of this promotion? Nothing! Just the satisfaction of sharing one of my favorite Brooklyn restaurants with you, my readers.

 

I hope you get to experience Madiba. I know you'll enjoy it as much as I do.

Madiba

195 Dekalb Ave

Brooklyn, NY 11205

Do you have a favorite restaurant that reminds you of a place you've traveled?