Visiting the Alaskan Glaciers

Glacier: noun <gley-sher>

- an extended mass of ice formed from snow falling and accumulating over the years and moving very slowly, either descending from high mountains, as in valley glaciers, or moving outward from centers of accumulation, as in continental glaciers.

Note: A glacier is not an ice burg!

I was desperate for an outdoor tour. I wanted to see Alaska up-close, I wanted water, I wanted mountains, I wanted animals, but it was mid-September and most tours were closed for the year.

I was in the Alaska visitor center in downtown Anchorage, flipping through pamphlets when the lady who worked there remembered one tour that was possibly still operating. After a phone call to confirm, she gave me an offer, a four-hour glacier adventure. Glacier adventure I considered, envisioning icebergs and the crystal ocean, polar bears and the experience of a lifetime. I was sold. No questions were asked. Two tickets were purchased. The tour operator would be at my hotel lobby at noon.

"We're going to see icebergs! The man will be here to pick us up in an hour."

I delivered this news with enthusiasm as I charged my SONY. I couldn't wait to take pictures.

"Wow, we're going to see icebergs?"

Mark began to glow with enthusiasm as well. After all we'd never seen icebergs, we live in Brooklyn.

In the lobby of the hotel, we were approached by a man.

"Are you the Williams'?"

"Yes."

"I'm Sheldon, your guide."

Mark and I exchanged grins. It was go time.

Sheldon led us to a minivan parked outside of the hotel. Like a kid being lured with a lollypop, I hopped right in, buckled my seat belt, and situated my camera on my lap.

Mark, a Brooklyn native, looked nervous and after questioning Sheldon in hushed tones,  joined me in the van.

"I can't believe you just got into this guy's van. We don't know him. I don't see a company logo. He has no id. You're as bad as a kid. He could drive us out in the middle of the wilderness, rob us and leave us. I don't trust this."

Before I could respond Sheldon took his place behind the steering wheel and off we went. All was well, Sheldon was a professional certified independent tour guide. My paranoid New Yorker husband began to relax. We were off, we were heading to the icebergs and we were going to have a wonderful time.

We wound through mountain chains and down narrow slippery roads until without warning Sheldon pulled over.

"Okay, here is our first stop."

Mark and I exchanged worried glances. Perhaps my jaded New Yorker husband was on to something. Perhaps we were going to be robbed and left on the side of the road right here in the middle of nowhere.

"But we're on the side of the road."

My voice was shaky.

"Yep, and that over there is your first glacier."

Sheldon pointed in the distance to an icy mountain.

"That's our glacier?"

My eyes strained in an effort to understand what I was looking at.

"Yep, that's it."

"Where is this glacier?" Mark asked suspiciously

"Right there. Can't you see it." Sheldon pointed. "It's right on the side of the mountain."

"Wait. What is a glacier?"

"A glacier is a solid mas of ice."

My heart sank.

"Oh. So what is an iceberg?"

"An iceberg starts off as a glacier but then it detaches and floats on the water."

"Oh. Are we going to see icebergs?"

"Nope."

"Can we see icebergs?"

"Oh, no miss, this is a glacier tour."

"I see."

And I could also see my husband narrowing his eyes at me.

"We paid this man two hundred dollars to show us ice sliding down mountains?" he whispered incredulously once Sheldon's back was turned.

And so it was.

Once we got over the initial disappointment we had a great time. The glaciers were beautiful. The mountains were majestic.

Salmon swimming upstream.

And most importantly I learned something, a glacier is not an iceberg!

Visit Anchorage Alaska

        This was the extent of my moose spotting!

      My first taste of a reindeer hotdog. Sooooo incredibly delicious.

        Reindeer is both sweet and savory.

    Bears both stuffed and statues were ubiquitous sightings around Anchorage.

The Anchorage trolley is wonderful because for $15 dollars, it will take visitors to points of interest around the city. It will also transport visitors to the Native Heritage Center outside of town.

Everywhere, there were reminders of Alaskan native people. Unfortunately, the Native Heritage Center was not open.

Poor Ohm, already subjected to his mommy's love for corny photo ops. He was less than impressed- as usual.

Ohm took his first independent walk here in Anchorage. He had his first sidewalk spill here as well.

There were many overcast days :(

The Alaska visitor center is a great resource

The streets of Anchorage were kind of eerily deserted. It wasn't that cold out?!?

“Alaska, The Last Frontier”

The air is thin and weighted by the heavy aroma of spruce sap. Golden are the mountains, the horizon, and the sharp leaves of the sycamore maple. The chill though not overpowering, is immediate, punctuated by the coastal wind.

Alaska is an exotic northern wonder. Clean, crisp, rugged, and hearty, it’s the kind of place that welcomes you warmly with open arms and leaves it’s mark.

Anchorage is a charming small “big city.” Quaint and spread out, Anchorage is tourist friendly, family friendly, foodie friendly, beer connoisseur friendly, eco-friendly and an all around great place to launch your exploration of Alaska.

Anchorage has no shortage of good food. There a dozens of locally owned restaurants to choose from. When dining out, you must sample the fresh salmon, you’ve got to try reindeer, and you should sample the local favorite- sourdough flapjacks. If you’re a beer drinker, you’ll be at home in Anchorage. It seemed every restaurant boasted a home brew. The taps were literally overflowing.

Anchorage is full of nature trails. You can walk or rent a bike and venture out for the day. Now the locals will tell you that you can spot a moose or a bear on any given day, but don’t get your hopes up too high. I didn’t have one single sighting and I tried, I tried so badly. I was there for ten days and nothing. Apparently the spring brings the most sightings.

Speaking of seasons, you need to plan your trip to Alaska based upon the season. Here’s a tip, and it’s a big tip, the best time to visit Anchorage (depending on what you want) is between late spring and late summer if you would like to see the cultural sites and go on tours. Many of the tours and sites close for the winter due to the drop in tourism and let’s be real, the frigid temperatures. Winter, is the time to visit if you’d like to experience the northern light show – (aurora borealis) however.  I visited in mid-September and most of the tours had just finished for the year. I really wanted to visit the Native Heritage Center, which was closed and I was a week late to take advantage of the free downtown trolley tours.  There was also a really cool looking haunted ghost tour that I wanted to take but I was a week late for that as well. September was too early in the year to see the aurora borealis but it was the perfect time to see one of the most beautiful autumn leave displays I’ve ever seen. I can’t complain, I simply have to return.

Discovering Anchorage Alaska; Tony Knowles Coastal Trail

Your boots squeak as you walk atop the soggy trail. The road looks like a festive mocha cake, with vibrant autumn leave sprinkles. You have more energy than you know what to do with. It must be the air you think. The crisp coolness, the light clean wisps propel you forward.

You try to quiet your feet. You move slowly attempting to blend into the scenery. You hope for a wildlife spotting. Nothing too feral, no bears, but a moose will do.

You feel like the only human in the world. The sky has never been so clear, so blue. The water, almost black, does not move.  The wind rustles the golden leaves, the remaining ones, the fighters who cling defiantly to skinny slate branches.

Delicately you continue onward, rambling, following the trail as it winds around neighborhoods, past parks. You are stunned by the occasional shocks of red- berries, clustered against an otherwise grey backdrop.

A bald eagle perches on a tree to your left. You stop to stare. The bird is larger than you would have imagined. You’re grateful for the fact that it seems preoccupied by it’s prey, something in the marsh, you can’t see. You are so close you can look into its beady eyes. You hold your breath. Waiting for the swoop. Instead it returns to the sky. The moment has passed.

You continue onward. Approaching a clearing you find yourself gazing across the opal water at a massive chain of mountains. The more you blink, the clearer the chain becomes. It appears to reach the sky.

A beaver breaks through the surface of the water startling you. Your exhale, sharp and sudden releases a smoky trail reminding you how cold it is. The beaver dives beneath the water and appears once again. He, or possibly she, carries twigs in her mouth and piles them at the corner of the embankment.

Your ears perk up. You are suddenly aware of the fact that you’re not alone. Something rustles in the bushes behind you. Your heart races, you prepare your camera. You just know you are about to be face to face with a large majestic moose. You prepare your lens for the zoom.

It grows quiet. You wait patiently for your prize. Suddenly, in a flash of excited sandy energy, your moose bursts forth. Only your moose isn’t a moose, it’s a golden retriever followed by its two jogging owners who greet you with cheer and vigor.

You’ve been walking for an hour, lost in thought. Slowly your fingers have grown numb, your nose is running. It is time to head back.

It has been a fine morning, a calm cool, stimulating morning, remarkable in all the right small ways. You didn’t spot your moose, but the trail shared her many other gifts. You are not disappointed.

Destination South Street Seaport

I've always been a huge fan of New York's South Street Seaport. Away from the hustle and bustle of Manhattan, the seaport is breezy, nautical, and reminiscent of a 20th century port.

When I first moved to New York, I would often take the train from Harlem and set up camp on the pier with a novel or my writing journal. The seaport offered beautiful scenery, free outdoor events, and a wonderful break from the chaos of many New York neighborhoods.

Definitely worth a visit, there is no shortage of things to do at the seaport. Prepare to spend hours here.

The cobblestone streets are lined with shops, the pier is dotted with restaurants offering menus ranging from the fresh catch of the day to authentic-ish Mexican.

There is a scenic walkway and park right on the water with excellent views of the Brooklyn bridge. In the summer you can enjoy outdoor concerts. If you are in the mood for a quick tour of New York's waterways, several tours leave from the Seaport, including the popular Water Taxi. There is a Seaport Museum as well as a museum hosting the world-famous Bodies exhibit.

For those holiday enthusiasts, the seaport turns into a picturesque Christmas village in the winter.

Whenever you choose to come,  wonderful moments await you at the South Street Seaport.

Head  on down here!

Stone Street, Manhattan

In the center of old New York you’ll find a narrow cobblestone street that is the very embodiment of old-fashioned charm and quirk.

Introducing - Stone street, a hip pedestrian-only strip oozing 19th century charm, modern elegance and a carefree vitality not commonly associated with New York’s Wall Street neighborhood.

First established by the Dutch in the 16oo's, Stone street has been transformed into an easygoing alleyway, boasting bars, restaurants and fabulous shops.

In the summer, spring, and fall, you can enjoy alfresco dining and abundant people watching.

No visit to Stone Street is complete without a trip to Financier. If you like French pastries, in particular macarons, then this is the place for you.

The Fight Against Jet Lag!

 

It’s early. My eyes, despite the weary signals from my brain refuse to close. A dull ache wraps itself around my head- “gotcha!” it hisses, spreading out around my temples. I move to sit up and the room begins to spin. Easing my way back down to my elbows, I am overcome with confusion.

There’s a sudden weight on my head. I turn to the right and spot the silhouette of my one year old, sitting bolt straight on the pillow and on my ponytail. He’s tugging at my hair and giggling maniacally. “Go to sleep,” I croak, reaching towards him. He dodges my grip.

The glowing red digits of the bedside clock reveal that it’s three-thirty. It’s three thirty am in Tokyo, but in New York, my home, it was two thirty in the afternoon.

My little one and I had just ploughed through a sixteen-hour journey, West to East. My mommy badge of courage was shiny and on full display as I had survived flying solo with a one year old. I had endured a sixteen-hour journey without a single nap while catering to my son’s every need to ensure peace for those around me during the flight. He was an angel (of course) and I still had my sanity, but now we were stuck, the ruthless bully known as jet lag was giving us a beat down.

As a result I found myself that first night, baby on hip, strolling the streets of Tokyo at three thirty in the morning, feeling and looking like a zombie. We strolled for two hours. We watched the sun come up. By noon, we had passed out in a heap. This was not the start I had envisioned for my trip.

I promised myself that this would be the last time I would be caught off-guard by jet lag. I was going to educate myself and I was going to fight back!

Jet lag refers to the discrepancy between your internal clock and the external time zone. The bully jet lag manifests itself both physically and mentally.

Some Common Jet Lag Symptoms:

Nausea

Fatigue

Weakness

Poor Concentration

Constipation

Frequent Urination

Dizziness

Swelling

Simply put, jet lag sucks! It can take a solid three to four days to recover. The worst jolts occurring when you travel West to East, as it is typically easier to stay up later than it is to go to sleep earlier.

But there is good news on the horizon. There are simple things that everyone can do to combat jet lag. You can shorten the duration and severity of jet lag or even in some cases wipe it out all together and you don’t need to use drugs.

Five Ways to Fight Jet Lag:

1)    Hydrate! Drink plenty of water before, during and after your flight. A good rule of thumb is two 8 oz. glasses before your flight and a liter of water for every hour you spend in the air. Avoid consuming alcohol and caffeine, as they tend to dehydrate. This will help combat the dizziness and nausea and for the sake of vanity, the dry skin, lips and hair you can sometimes experience in flight.

2)    Consume light meals before and during your trip. Try to avoid heavy food that settles in the stomach. You aren’t as active when you are in flight and your body has to work twice as hard to digest your meals, which can leave you feeling sluggish and lethargic.

3)    When you arrive at your destination, take a quick hot shower, followed by a quick cold rinse. This will stimulate your circulation and get your blood flowing. You’ll feel awake and invigorated.

4)    Take a quick 30-minute to 1-hour nap to re-set and then get up and get out there. If you sleep for more than an hour, you run the risk of disturbing your night’s sleep.

5)    Be as active as possible before the flight. Move your body, stretch, take a yoga class. When you’re on the flight, get up and walk the aisles, stretch your legs and take standing breaks. Do your best to go through as many motions as possible. Pack a toothbrush and brush your teeth before you attempt to sleep, wash your face, comb your hair, fight for normalcy even though there is nothing normal about soaring above the clouds in an airtight vessel for ten, fifteen, twenty or more hours. When you move about the cabin, try to be cognizant of the time zone of your destination and schedule your activities (naps, tooth brushing, snacks) to fit into your new time zone.

With so much to do and see when you travel, it’s no fun to be debilitated by jet lag.

Before leaving Japan for New York, I did my research and was ready. I drank water, I walked the airport before my flight, and I spent more time walking my little one up and down the aisles of the plane. I channeled my inner ballerina and did a series of plies to keep my limbs lively. When I got home, I hopped in the shower, took a one hour nap and what do you know… I was groggy, I had a bit of a headache, but I fell back in step much easier. There were no three am strolls up and down the streets of Brooklyn. I had made peace with the enemy, a looming 13-hour time-gap, and am ready to plan my next trip.

How do you fight jet lag?

It's Official, Sojourner's Sojourns has been voted Best Travel Blog by the Black Weblog Awards!

Dear Readers, Thank you so much for voting and supporting Sojourner's Sojourns. It has just been announced, Sojourner's Sojourns has been voted Best Travel Blog by the Black Weblog Awards. Woot woot! A million thanks :)

Happy Travels,

Sojourner