Waiter (yet another tale in one act)

ACT I.(At a cafe)

Waiter: Boa Tarde Sojo: Boa Tarde, I would like the Italian pizza Waiter: Yes, Italian pizza Sojo: Yes, but could I have that without the sausage Waiter: (looks confused) Italian pizza, it comes with sausage Sojo: Yes, I know, but can I have mine without Waiter: It's not possible Sojo: Why? You make the pizzas in the kitchen. Just don't add any sausage to mine please Waiter: It's not possible, it comes with sausage Sojo: Yes, I realize that, but I don't eat meat and I would like everything that comes with the Italian pizza, I just don't want the sausage Waiter: ok Sojo: Thank you, so you will bring me an Italian pizza without the sausage Waiter: No, it's not possible Sojo: You can't just give me the pizza without the sausage Waiter: It's not possible Sojo: I'll have the cheese pizza Waiter: Yes, cheese pizza

TWIDLWNIWNM (Another tale in one act)

Act I.(The teachers office ADPP)

Teacher who I don't like whose name I will not mention: Ah, Sojo, my big boss, how goes it? Sojo: Hi TWIDLWNIWNM: Sojo, yah, I need something Sojo: yes TWIDLWNIWNM: I don't know what we will do Sojo: Why? TWIDLWNIWNM: On the computer, I must make a message to teacher Tracy Sojo: Okay... TWIDLWNIWNM: Well you can do it Sojo: What? TWIDLWNIWNM: Yah! sojo: What do you want me to do? TWIDLWNIWNM: I need you to make an email Sojo: Ok...so what do you want me to do???? TWIDLWNIWNM: Yah, well you can write it Sojo: You can write your own email TWIDLWNIWNM: No I haven't the know how Sojo: You don't know how? TWIDLWNIWNM: Yes, No, Yes, it's very difficult Sojo: Do you want me to show you how so that it won't be difficult anymore? TWIDLWNIWNM: No you see it's difficult Sojo: No, I'll show you TWIDLWNIWNM: No you will write it Sojo: You need to learn TWIDLWNIWNM: No not today Sojo: You realize I'm going baack to New York soon and then what will you do? TWIDLWNIWNM: (crazy laughter) Sojo: (stone faced silence) TWIDLWNIWNM: Ok so write Sojo: Write what? You're not making any sense TWIDLWNIWNM: (more crazy laughter) Sojo: TWIDLWNIWNM, I'm going to count to three and if you can't tell me exactly what you want I'm walking away...1...2.. TWIDLWNIWNM: Oh Sojo my big boss, come sit, tell teacher Tracy I need some papers Sojo: What papers? You need to be specific. You want me to email Tracy who is back home in Westchester about "some" papers. I don't think she's going to know what you're talking about TWIDLWNIWNM: (even more crazy laughter) Sojo: (eyes become slits) TWIDLWNIWNM: Oh Sojo (pets her on the head as if she is a stupid dog who can't be trained) Yes

RAK-47 WPO (A tale in one act)

It's the blind leading the blind. For the life of me, I can't figure out how anything functions. ACT I. (It's a sunny afternoon. Sojourner is walking down a street past a police station.)

Random AK-47 Wielding Police Officer: You can't pass here Sojo: What? RAK-47 WPO: You can't pass here (he points to the other side of the street) Sojo: I can't walk on this side of the street? RAK-47 WPO: No, other Sojo: Why? RAK-47 WPO: (Points across the street) Sojo: (Begins to cross over to the opposite side of the street) RAK-47 WPO: No! you have to go back Sojo: What? RAK-47 WPO: (Points to the end of the street many yards away) Sojo: (Stares down RAK-47 WO accessing him. He is small, perhaps 5'2" and 90 lbs, she thinks she might be able to take him, then re-considers remembering the large assult riffle which probably isn't actually loaded, but if it were, RAK-47WPO would probably be happy to play target practice with the irritated American. She stares him down and gives in, but first offers up the nastiest snarl she can muster. Pivoting on her heels, she makes her way to the end of the street, crosses over and re-works her way down the street, this time, as requested, on the opposite side of the police station)

Morungulu Beach Weekend

This morning I saw my breath as I was drawing water from the well. It's really getting cold. We're smack dab in the middle of our winter season. I have to wrap myself like a mummy at night in capolanas so I can sleep because it's so chilly and of course I didn't bring enough warm clothes because when I was told I'd be in Mozambique during the winter I grunted and rolled my eyes thinking, yeah, sure, eighty five degrees instead of one hundred. What's that thing they say about hindsight?

I am really letting myself go. I'm barely recognizable. I've begun to do strange things that I wouldn't have done before. A few days ago, I drank water with ants, twigs and debris in it, I figured it was alright because it was boiled. Yesterday, I drank my coffee even though there was a fly in it. I just couldn't be bothered with boiling another pot of water and waiting, waiting, waiting, so I just tipped it on back. I didn't even remove the fly. I've become extremely comfortable with roaches, they don't phase me at all anymore. A few days ago, I swatted one away with my hand because it was crawling too close. Ordinarially, I wouldn't get closer than ten feet of one. I used to drink bottled water, boiled my tap water, but now, here, I've let myself go, for better or for worse.

Who knows how my re-integration into American society will go. I can see myelf now, my hooves, because that is what has become of my feet, will be clickity clacking down the terminal at JFK, my hair will be wild, I'll be dressed in mis-matched capolanas and everyone at the arrivals gate will wince in horror as I trot through and inevitably get detained at immigration. Hmmmmm...

I have seen so many rainbows lately. The cool air has created lots of fog which has created a community of rainbows that seem to link one palm tree to another across the horizon. I try to photograph these rainbows, but they never come out very well so I've given up and I'm taking it all in.

Yesterday, I had my first day back at work since my investigation. It is nice to be back to my regular schedule. I've been keeping busy fine tuning my pre-school curriculum which I think is turning out nicely.

The students have exams all week so my classes are cancelled. I hate when my classes are cancelled, I have so many things I want to do with the students and since I only teach twice a week, I really look forward to my time in the classroom.

I had the best week-end. A few of us rented a bungalow on Morungulu beach, a few hours North of Inhambane. It was beautiful and secluded. We had the beach and the resort to ourselves. I was in heaven. The water was so warm, I was swimming and being tossed around by waves. I collected so many shells, I can now add clam shells to my collection, large hand sized ones for holding jewelry and sage. I wrote poetry, that I'll be kind enough not to share with you and worked on my book. I spent hours meditating and sleeping in the sun. The resort was lovely, I'm definitely going to re- visit for my honeymoon. It works out perfectly that our American summer is the off season for the South African tourists who usually occupy the resort. Ha ha ha ...

Soaking in Inhambane

Last night's Manchester victory, I felt like I was there.My three roomates and I, along with Akisha, Lynne and Wendy went to a local bar, a brand new one that just popped up along the main road before the central market. The bar was really cute. It was owned by a local woman, a fashion designer who is apparently showing her collection at Fashion Week South Africa - but that's not the point. Back to Manchester, the football game was on and the atmosphere was wild. Our eyes were glued to the large screen television.

The energy was so infectuous.

We were the only women in the establishment. We were the only non-Mozambicans in the establishment. We were up-front and center, elbow to elbow with the men from town, holding our breaths in anticipation.

It was a good game. I didn't watch all of it because I'm a little ADD, especially when it comes to sports, but I had fun.

My roomates and I walked home. People are weary of picking up four hitchikers at once. During our hour long walk down that old familiar moonlit path we would hear screams and hollers as men all over Inhambane cheered or cursed. These screams seemed to come from the bush and from the dark savannah-like expanses around us. We couldn't even see all of the places the voices hailed from, but they would cry out in unison every fifteen minutes or so. Every once in a while the voices would be accented by glass breaking and frantic shouting. I love this place.

Today, Tamika and I strolled around town. We visited the local history museum. I have always passed by and have always been curious I just never found the right time. I'm glad I did, it turns out that Inhambane has the sweetest little history museum, simply titled: museu.

Inside, the history of Inhambane was chronicled through drawings, photographs and artifacts. It really was fascinating. I feel very connected to this place.

A whole section of the museum was dedicated to the practices of the local traditional healers. I really want to visit a traditional healer before I leave. I have no particular ailments. I've actually been in perfect health. I just want to talk to a traditional healer and learn about the traditions and methodology. A self-directed anthropolgical quest if you will. Why not?

I purchased a batik print at the market today. It was purple and brown and depicted elephants crossing the savannah. I bargained that sucker down to an astonishing 12 Mtc. It took a good twenty minutes and several exaggerated pivots to indicate that I would be moving on to a different vendor. I've become a haggler. I know too much now. I've learned the local prices and I won't settle for anything else.

We visited APOPO today, a non-profit next door to ADPP that specializes in training rats to detect land mines. My friend Tamika put it best when she said "they are training rats to save people from people". These rats are truly performing an invaluable service. They are also being trained to detect TB as well and to go on search and rescue missions. NO MORE RAT POISON! We need these creatures.

The rats were Giant Tanzanian Bush Rats and they averaged 20 pounds. New Yorkers, put this into perspective! I thought they were cute though. I got to pet one. I've always been a rat tolerator. I'd actually like to have a rat for a pet, one day, like in the young adult novel "Star Girl" that I used to read with my students. Movie night at my place anyone?

From Maputo to Inhambane: A Drama in three acts

Tamika and I had to take the chapa back to Inhambane. We left Machava, the headquarters of ADPP- Maputo around seven thirty am and waited for 30 minutes to catch a chapa to take us to the Junta chopa station. While in the chopa heading towards Junta, the chapa driver decided that he wasn't going to Junta after all. We had of course paid. We of course had tons of luggage. Getting from point A to point B can be so frustrating here. We were dropped off about thirty minutes by foot outside of the Junta station and had no choice but to walk.

When we got to the Junta station already tired, dusty and sweaty, it was a chaotic mess - bus fumes, people, vendors, goats, everything and anything. Immediately, because we wre bogged down with luggage and because Tamika was wearing sunglasses, we got hastled. Men surrounded us demanding to know where we were going. There is always such a bitter fight at these stations to grab Western customers because the price is higher. To tired to fight them off and too disoriented to figure it out myself, I let them lead us towards the Inhambane chapa. We got on.

FYI: A ride from Maputo to Inhambane costs 300 mtc

The man insisted that we pay 475 each. I was so frustrated. I had been living here for months now and knew better. I refused to pay and threatened to leave. I got him to go down to 375 but he wouldn't go any lower. We had no choice so we paid.

MORE FYI: My friend Lynne was in Maputo on a business trip that same week-end and was leaving on the same day. We were going to leave together, but I told her we'd go ahead because we wanted to make it home before dark.

OKAY...

So Tamika and I are sitting on this nearly empty chapa. Slowly it began to fill. An hour passes, two hours pass, three hours pass and we're still sitting. Basically, a chapa will never leave the station until it is full. There are no clear departure and arrival times EVER. We can't get out because the station is dangerous and people are all around waiting to rob foreigners like ourselves and Tamika is still wearing those sun glasses. We couldn't even go to the bathroom because well there was no bathroom and we couldn't leave our bags unattended. So we sat and waited.

Suddenly I look up and there's Lynne. It was completely crazy that I was still sitting in a station in Maputo. I was happy to see her though. We waited for two more hours before the bus pulled out. That means, Tamika and I waited for five hours in a hot chapa. You know how awful it is to wait in a parked car with the windows up in the heat of summer? Well multiply that by ten! By the time we rolled out, I had to go to the bathroom so badly.

The ride was bumpy and crazy. Luckily for me, we stopped at a gas station where I was able to use the bathroom and grab some food. We were so hungry and thirsty as well.

The driver, a few hours into our trip became possessed with a sudden sense of urgency. He wove in and out of traffic. Zipped over potholes. We almost got into a few accidents and about an hour before we reached Inhambane, the chapa broke down. It completely fell apart. This was around 9:30pm. It was pitch black and cold outside. We all had to pile out of the chapa and onto the dark streets in God knows where and were forced to navigate our own way home. No refund!

Luckily I was able to hitch a ride and we made it back to Lynne's in one piece. (She let us spend the night. She lived in town about 20 minutes away from our rural bush abode.)

I swear I will never ever ever rely on transportation across Mozambique. It is so extremely tedious and frustrating. I was surprised, I think I handled it very well. I have become extremely patient and flexible. I guess I had no choice.

For these reasons however, Tamika and I have decided not to risk our sanity again to travel up north even further to Chimoio and Namantanda to visit our friends who are working at sites there, instead we will stay put. Home sweet Inhambane home and lay low for our last week of investigation.

Rabies

Last night, a bunch of us got together for dinner at Sem Ceremonias. We were eating and having a good time when Wendy, out of nowhere declared that a rabies outbreak had recently been declared in Inhambane province. We scoffed at this news and made jokes."No, ten people have died already. Many dogs have been put down." She was very serious.

After dinner, Lynne, Tamika and I walked through the quiet calm streets of Inhambane towards Lynne's house. It was a beautiful evening, almost a full moon, every pebble on the ground was illuminated. Magnolia blossoms lightly scented the cool breezy air, everything was perfect.

Then, out of nowhere we heard barking. Stopping dead in our tracks, we looked up to see (I kid you not) a pack of about eight dogs barking and running towards us.

I froze, Tamika froze, Lynne began to run, then I began to run followed by Tamika. "Into the truck!" Lynne ordered and jumped into the bed of a pick-up truck that was parked on the side of the street. I needed no convincing. I lept in as limber as a pole vaulter. Tamika was the last one in. Everyone on the street turned to watch the scene. Three girls screaming, being chased by a pack of dogs, clamoring into the back of a parked truck and the dogs as if they didn't even know we were there ran by leaving us petrified and looking like fools, clinging to each other for dear life in the back of someone's vehicle.

Maputo

Today is my three month anniversary. Time is flying.

Technically, I am on my investigation period. I've been looking forward to this. Friday I went to Maputo to visit Tamika, explore the city and the ADPP project there.I have a new respect for Maputo. I was able to have a good time there this time around, unlike when I first arrived.

Maputo is a city of extremes. In the Maputo Shopping Center (a giant LA style outdoor mall), the prices were so high, I couldn't afford to purchase anything. Clothing at some stores retailed for over two hundred American dollars, jewelry in the thousands. Who were these stores catering to? The stores were basically empty and the workers, friendly and eager to make a sale. Tamika and I smiled and browsed and kept it moving.

We met up with J, who is from Maputo. He and his friend took us around and showed us some sites.

Maputo was as dirty and crowded as I remembered, but it also had charm. The Jardim Tunduro (the botanical garden), was like New York's Central Park, a little oasis of calm and green in the midst of a chaotic pulsing city. The architecture in the park was charming and there was quite the variety of exotic flora.

The National Museum of Art was breathtaking. Mozambique is home to some extraordinary artists. Many of the sculptures and paintings chilled me to the bone as they were the artists response to either colonization or the brutal civil war that followed. I almost expected some of the sculptures to scream out in anguish at any moment shattering the windows and walls.

There were Kentucky Fried Chickens and Domino's Pizza's in Maputo. The KFCs in Maputo were far nicer and cleaner than any KFCs I've ever seen in America.

The restaurant scene in Maputo deserves mention. I am a self-proclaimed foodie and there were several delicious dining venues. Tons of Indian, Chinese, Arabic and Italian food establishments lined the streets. I will say this and I will swear by it, traditional Mozambican food is DELICIOUS and there are so many opportunities in Maputo to sample the local cuisine.The nightlife in Maputo was great. We went out with J and some  of his friends (Maputo locals) who took us to Gil Vissants, a night-club, lounge, live music venue. A local jazz band played the night we went and they were absolutely fantastic. I felt like I was back in New York, the people, the scene, I loved it. There was a great mix of locals and ex-pats. There are so many creative types in Maputo. I think the city is on the brink of some sort of revival. It's going to be great! Keep your eyes on Maputo.

We arrived in Inhambane on Wednesday. Tamika came back with me and is now transferring from the ADPP in Maputo to the one here in Inhambane. Long story short, she was virtually ignored at her project - go figure. She is transferring to Inhambane to attempt to get something out of this volunteer program.The chapa ride back was an adventure, but I don't have time to chronicle it right now since I have a job interview over gmail chat which I will also explain at a later time.

Main Idea: The first part of my investigation period in Maputo went well. The city is lovely and deserves mention and a visit from any of you daring enough to venture to Mozambique!

Ate Logo Tracy

Today we said goodbye to Tracy. Now I live with Mar and Geirdre. They are nice, sure, but it's just not the same! Well I suppose I am officially entering phase two of my placement. Now I am the senior D.I. showing the new people the ropes.

Flashes beneath the tropic of capricorn

Here, the lightning takes stage a good two hours before the rain and thunder. It's such a show. The sky becomes illuminated with  bright flashes of pink, purple and yellow. It's a silent show that never fails to stop me dead in my tracks. Perhaps this is always how it is, maybe I have never noticed since I can not remember at any point in my life seeing such a great expanse of sky. Either way, the sky over Mozambique is brilliant. We've had powerful thunder and lightning storms for the last two nights. The power has come and gone several times during the evening hours. We light our house by sticking candles in Lemon Twist bottles. The wax melts over the bottle and creates volcanic art pieces.

Tomorrow Tracy leaves. I can't believe it. The house will not be the same. Later this afternoon, we are supposed to get a new Development Instructor from Spain. Our little house is filling up. On Friday, I'm leaving for my two week investigation period and when I return Tamika will also join me in Inhambane. It will be a nice IICD-Massachusetts reunion and a full house. All of the four bedrooms will be occupied.

I'm teaching another yoga class this Thursday! I am having such a great time teaching yoga. One of the first things that I am going to do when I get back to New York is become certified.

I haven't seen any disturbing insects in weeks. I hope I don't curse myself. Last night I did fall asleep with a mosquito trapped inside of my net. Talk about irritating. It kept buzzing in my ear but I wasn't fast enough to kill it. I haven't been bitten though, so I don't know what happened to it? Somehow between the thunder and mosquito buzzing, I fell asleep.

We've almost caught up with our LOST episodes. We've got three more episodes to watch and we'll be at pace with the rest of the world. I'm completely caught up with 30 Rock (my new favorite show).

It's the little things. It really is the little things that make all the difference!

Books

Today a shipment of books arrived from our headquarters in Maputo.We are in the process of arranging a library for the students. I love organizing things. This brings me back to the days of organizing my classroom library. It was always the most exciting part of starting a new school year. The students at ADPP have some great resources to draw from. It will be interesting to see how the library is utilized over time. Geidre, is in charge of developing a card catalog system of sorts. Lucky girl, she got a specific task to focus her attention on right away.

Island of the Pigs

The days have been flying by. I can't believe it's May. Soon I will be celebrating my third month in Inhambane - my halfway point. When I arrived, it was hot and humid, now, it's chilly and dry. There have been so many changes. When I arrived I was afraid of giant cockroaches, now I ignore them. When I arrived, Tracy was here, having just celebrated her third month anniversary, on Wednesday she will return to New York.

We have a new Development Instructor, a girl named Gierdre. Gierdre is from Lithuania and seems nice. I think she's disappointed with the project as we all were when we first arrived. Hopefully she'll have a better experience here than the rest of us (as far as the project goes). We took her around and introduced her to all of our friends and have shown her the beach and the city. She's off to a good start. She's an assertive one, so that will serve her well. You need to be so blunt here.

I published a travel narrative on the Pilot Guides website about my experience in Ghana at the Cape Coast Castle. The article is located at: www.pilotguides.com/community/travel_writers/ghana_door_no_return.php

Oh, speaking of new developments, we no longer have Nutella. Nutella ran away one day after she was kicked out of the teacher's office by one of the other teachers. We took her outside the office and she tried to jump in through the window. There are bars seperating the window hole into five small squares. Her head went into one, her paws in another, she almost hung herself. After hoisting her down, Tracy and I walked her through the ADPP gates near the main road thinking she would go home. That was the last we saw of her. Oh Nutella, wherever you are we miss you!

Yesterday, Tracy, Geirdre, Akisha, Lynne, Wendy and I took a trip to Pig Island with a bunch of Akisha's students. It turned out to be a great day. It started off rocky. The students didn't plan well and by the time we arrived at the dock where we were supposed to catch our sail boat that was hired to transport us to the island, the tide was so low the boat couldn't sail. We had to walk for an hour in muddy knee deep water, over sharp stones and shells to the mainland where we had to trek across sand and then through water again to reach the boat that finally took us to the island.

Pig Island is beautiful. It is home to a small traditional village. The island almost seemed empty. We were the only tourists. The Mayor of the village came out and welcomed us and offered us the most amazing coconuts from his palm trees. We spent the day touring the island, relaxing, and picnicking on the breezy beach. I collected two cowry shells (a rare find). My shell collection is growing nicely.

My classes are progressing slowly. Classes were cancelled last week. I did have a student approach me from one of the other classes because he wanted to learn my lengthy version of "Head/Shoulders/Knees and Toes" so that he could teach it to his first graders. I was happy to be of service. Tracy and I put in a proposal for a community literacy program but as with most things it's been brushed to the bottom of the pile. I am really sick of dealing with some of my male colleagues who have clearly never had to work with women before because they can 't stand it when they are challenged. These things drive me crazy and cause me to imagine slamming glass Fanta bottles across their heads, but I try to maintain my composure. Women are definitely second class citizens here and intelligent women with opinions who refuse to take other people's nonsense, seem to make everyone very nervous. Luckily I will be going on my two week investigation beginning on Friday and I won't have to think about ADPP for two glorious weeks, three if I can push it. I do need the break.

Last night we watched the movie "27 Dresses". I was not very impressed but it was nice to see Manhattan, if only for an hour and a half.

Tracy and Sojo, meet Nutella

Things happen quickly sometimes and with little warning. Yesterday, Tracy and I got a dog, or rather it happened upon us, or maybe it was fate? We were preparing to go out. I opened the door to go to the well to fetch a bucket of water to wash up with. I came back into our house and there was a large pit mix staring at me with the cutest little expression on her sandy brown face. She walked up to me as if we were old buddies. I pet her big head, called Tracy and we began to fall in love. Her fur was so velvety and she had a pink and black speckled nose. Who doesn't love a pink and black speckled nose? I'm such a sucker all it took was twenty seconds. She was well taken care of and had an owner somewhere because she was wearing a collar but had no tags. Clearly she didn't belong in the brush. We have our share of stray muts, but they are all mournful looking skinny little things. Most of our rural neighbors are terrified of dogs because the Portuguese used to sick their dogs on the Mozambicans to intimidate them. Long story short, we let her stay in our kitchen while we put on our make up and prepared to go out.

We left our house dog in tow figuring that she'd find her way back to wherever she came from. We walked the main road holding our thumbs up trying to get a lift into the city and the dog followed. We finally get a lift and before we can get into the truck, she jumps in ahead of us. The guys driving the truck were like, okay, no problem, and so began the story of Sojourner, Tracy and Nutella. Yes, Nutella. We named her Nutella because she's brown and white and she sort of if you squint looks like nutella and we really miss chocolate so it just worked for us. We get off in the city and head toward our friend Lynne's house and she follows. We get to Lynne's house and she hangs out there with our group. Everyone took to her because she's so darn cute.

A few hours later we headed to a BBQ and she of course followed and was very popular. I'm a veggie, so it worked out that I could pile my plate with sausages and give them to her without taking food from the other guests. Then she followed us to the after party at the Baraka next to Lynne's. It was only natural at that point that she hop into the car with us as our friends gave us a lift back to our place.

Today after work Tracy and I are going to put up flyers in town announcing that there is a missing dog. But she's soooooo cuuuutttteeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

She is here at work with us as I write, curled into a ball under Tracy's desk sleeping. She's the best dog! If I can't find a home for her, I'm going to bring her back to the states with me which might mean that I will soon be homeless, but she's sooooo cuuuuteeeee!.

All in all things have been going really really well here. Socially and aesthetically I love Inhambane. There is a beautiful energy here. We've got a new D.I. coming tomorrow so there will be three in the house, four with Nutella, so we've got a lot of adventures and fun times to look forward to.

Muito Frio

It's gotten so cold. Yes, cold, I realize is relative, but it's cold compared to the burning inferno I first encountered in February. Last night I was freezing. I should have brought a blanket with me. Yesterday I taught a yoga class. It was so nice to get back on the mat and move through a series of asanas. It was a Vinyasa flow class (at least my non-certified version). I'm definitely heading east to an ashram when I'm finished with this project.

I had the best English class. I was teaching the parts of the body and after we identified all of the body parts we sang "Head Shoulders Knees and Toes". My students loved it. I added on seven new verses so that each vocabulary word was covered and I made them sing it and go through the motions quickly and slowly. Their assignment was to create their own song in Portuguese (which they would translate also into English) that they could use to teach the children in their classes the parts of the body. Then they each took a turn sharing their songs with the class. It was so much fun! Their homework is to create movements or a dance to go along with their songs for the kinesthetic learners. Good times! I wish I taught more English classes.

Magnolias in the distance

I was sick this week-end. I had some sort of a stomach bug that has been going around.I've lost so much weight since I've arrived, my clothes are all too big. It's ridiculous. Even my underwear are baggy. I have to buy new clothes, pants in particular.

Sunday was a full moon and we went to a full moon party on the beach at DINO's (one of the resort restaurants in Tofo). They have a full moon party every full moon. It was so much fun. It's tourist season right now so there were so many new people to meet, not just the "regulars". I had fun! A lot of fun!!! I met someone. I've got such a crush. I feel like I'm 12 years old again. We'll call him J and he's Mozambican, from Maputo in town scoping out sites to open a backpackers on one of the beaches in Inhambane.

The weather is freezing. I say this because I've grown accustomed to 90 degrees and it is currently 60-70 during the day and 40ish at night. Winter season is here and it's really blustery. Last night, I heard the cyclone warning horns in the distance, but the scary thing is that unless someone tells me that we are about to have a cyclone, I'd never know. Nor do I know what to do in the event that we do get one, so, let's hope that doesn't happen.

A magnolia bush is flourishing in our backyard. It smells sooooo nice. Tracy and I have been walking around with the flowers and buds in our hair. We get a lot of odd looks. I've started pressing and drying the flowers and using them to decorate my recycled books. I've been creating various notebooks using recycled cardboard and paper. Soon I'll lead a workshop. I've also made candle holders using recycled coconut shell and plastic bottles. Wish I had more tools, like wire pliers, so that I could manipulate aluminum cans into beads.

I know for next time!

Bubble-Bubble-Toil and Trouble!

HAPPY TWO MONTH ANNIVERSARY TO ME! Our dinner party last night was a success. Matapa always goes over well. Oh, I love Mozambican food! Matapa is my favorite local dish. Matapa consists of the leaves from the casava plant. Casava plants are everywhere, the leaves sort of look like marijuana. The leaves are boiled and sauteed in a coconut milk and peanut sauce curry and served over coconut rice. Delicious!!!!!! Our empragada (housekeeper Juakina) makes the best Matapa on this side of the Indian Ocean. We're lucky to have her.

The breakfast Tracy and I prepared for the students was slightly chaotic. My oatmeal was a little on the salty side. I'm not sure what happened but my pinch turned into a cup. I'm not used to making oatmeal by the cauldron full. I felt like I was enacting the first scene of Macbeth. The students liked their breakfast. It was so funny to see them eating western-ish food for the first time. They didn't know what oatmeal was or what french toast was. They thought something was wrong with the bread until they tasted it. The fruit salad was familiar to them at least.

I'm off to sort the garbage!

Sojourner Walker- Garbage Lady

Last night, Tracy and I made fudge in preparation for a dinner party we're throwing tonight.

We're forcing our cozy ex-pat friends who reside in the city to join us for a night in the bush. A night without indoor plumbing or running water. Akisha's already taken the challenge, now we've got three new guests on our roster. The bush will either make you or break you. I haven't yet decided what it's doing to me. Only time will tell...We're making an elaborate breakfast for our students on Thursday to thank them for all of their hard work on the machamba (farm). The agriculture project we've all been slaving away at is finally taking off. Beautiful vegetation is sprouting left and right.

We've just solidified the breakfast budget. The students eat bread and butter for breakfast day in and day out. Tomorrow Tracy and I will make them oatmeal (with butter, brown sugar, heavy cream, ginger, cinnamon, cardamom and a pinch of salt), fruit salad (with papayas, bananas, oranges, apples, pineapples and passion fruit juice), and french toast.

We'll have to get up around 4:30 am to make all of this stuff, but I like to cook so I'm not complaining. Our overnight dinner guests will also attend our breakfast and meet our students and project leaders so it should be a good time.

We're having our project leaders meet our friends largely in part to the fact that they are convinced that Tracy and I have boyfriends in the city. Whenever they see us head towards the city the shoot accusing looks our way. We have been told point blank "I know you're sleeping with men in the city". It's really offensive.  Women are trusted and valued in this culture. In the US, that would be sexual harassment. We keep telling them that we have friends in the city, a group of American, Canadian and British girls that we hang out with and they don't believe us. So tomorrow morning they will see. And the rumors can stop flying- we hope. Big brother is always watching here. Most people don't have televisions or books or much to do, so they spend their time talking about the two mazungos who live in the pink and turquoise house smack dab in the middle of the bush. Drives me crazy! It's the talk of the brush when we get a new capulana or a new pair of earrings from market.I am now in charge of the garbage and recycling program. I just got a list of students who have been selected to assist (against their will). Most of them are my Intermediate English students. There are twelve in total and we are going to separate the garbage into bins for paper, plastic, aluminum, ash, compost and pig feed. We will also canvass the campus and do garbage pick-ups once a week. We even get to take on the responsibility of feeding the three enormous 250 lb hogs that are kept in a pen behind the kitchen.

I spend the majority of my time working in the field or working on the garbage project which is funny, because my job description is "Professor". I'm just going to go with the flow. I do feel strongly about recycling and I'm sick of smelling the stench of burned garbage so if this is where I'm needed, this is where I'll put my best foot forward.

Sweet agriculture

It's working. Our agriculture project is producing results. All of our trenches have been filled. The earth is being watered regularly so that the soil will decompose and rot to provide healthy fertile earth. Today in one of our test patches there were sweet potato plants. The little green leaves broke through the earth in stubborn winding clusters.

There is a delicious dish that is made using sweet potato leaves. I hope we will be able to harvest the crops within the month so they can make and serve the dish in the cafeteria.

The dish is called Manioch (sp?) I think and I'm not sure what they do, but they do it well, and the result is a creamy coconut flavored, spicy,  creamed spinach-like meal that is eaten over rice. It's so good. I'm going to learn how to make it so that I can replicate it when I get home. I appreciate the fact that every part of the plants and vegetables are utilized. I had no idea sweet potato leaves could be eaten. I had no idea they were so tasty.

Let's add scorpions to the list now

I saw my first scorpion today.It's coloring was odd, bright yellow which translates to full of venom. It was roughly the size of my hand and luckily for me dead as a doorknob.

I found it in the sand on my way to lunch. I would of course spot it, I can spot an insect in a darkened movie theatre. I made Tracy come over to confirm that I did indeed have my first scorpion sighting and it was confirmed.

I was told that there were no scorpions in Inhambane. I was lied to. I've been happily walking around in the bush in the dark in flip flops because I was assured that there were no scorpions. I've been lucky but it's time to change my habits.

First, I need to trade in my flip flops for a pair of actual shoes - boots would be preferred.

Toads in my bedroom

Living abroad, particularly in a developing country can be such a roller-coaster. Everything is done in the moment. Right now, at this moment, all is well.

Yesterday, walking through the streets of Inhambane, watching the sun slowly set as it cast an ethereal golden glow over the city, I realized that Inhambane is my city. It is what New York was to me, it's my home. Yes, I live in the bush an hour away by foot, but I identify with Inhambane City. Walking to Akisha's house with Tracy, we passed by shops that I know so well, shop owners that we know waved and called out to us, I have memories here. I am comfortable and familiar with the environment. I know that when I walk in front of the Frelimo building there is a dip where one of the bricks in the ground is missing and that I need to step around or leap over it to avoid tripping (as i've done in the past).

When I enter the Mercado Central, I know exactly where to go to get what I want and I know how to haggle and bargain until I get the local price. I know shop women and vendors. What was once foreign is familiar. I have a group of friends in the city which has made a world of a difference. Whether we are meeting for brownies and a movie or are gathering to practice yoga, I feel very much at home and at peace in Inhambane.

Life happens, no matter where you are. No matter where you go, there are friends to be made, relationships to be had, experiences to grow from. When I left for Mozambique, in a strange way I thought I'd be putting my life on hold for a year to have this "experience". I suppose professionally I'm putting my life on hold for a year, but that's as far as it goes. Everything else is blossoming lotus style. My Portuguese is getting worse, that's not blossoming. I don't understand how this has happened. Yes I do. Everyone speaks to me in English. It's so annoying and now, I've gotten used to speaking in English. One of my Mozambican friends Gilson is supposed to be teaching me Portuguese, I think I need to hurry up and arrange for our first session, pronto.

There was a toad in my bedroom last night, a cute little guy with a deep baritone, I let him stay.